Now, large-scale package holiday complexes jostle for
space behind the dunes and the increasingly crowded beach
has sprouted ranks of sun beds. On the plus side, Candolim
has plenty of pleasant places to stay, many of them tucked
away down quiet sandy lanes and better value than comparable
guesthouses in nearby Calangute, making this a good first
stop if one has just arrived in Goa and are planning to
head further north after finding one's feet.
The Aguda Fort
Immediately south of Candolim, a long peninsula extends
into the sea, bringing the seven-kilometre white sandy beach
to an abrupt end. Aguada Fort, which crowns the rocky flattened
top of the headland, is the best-preserved Portuguese bastion
in Goa. Built in 1612 to protect the northern shores of
the Mandovi estuary from Dutch and Maratha raiders, it is
home to several natural springs, the first source of drinking
water available to ships arriving in Goa after the long
sea voyage from Lisbon.
Eating Out
Candolim's numerous beach cafes are a cut above your average
seafood shacks, with pot plants, state-of-the-art sound
systems and prices to match. Basically, the farther from
the Taj Complex one ventures, the more realistic the prices
become. The main road is also dotted with restaurants serving
the usual selection of fresh fish dishes, with a handful
of continental options thrown in.
How to Get There
Road:
Buses to and from Panjim stop every twenty minutes or
so at the stand opposite the Casa Sea Shell, in the center
of Candolim. A few also continue south to the fort Aguada
Beach Resort Terminus, from where services depart every
thirty minutes for the capital via Nerul village. Taxis
wait outside the major resort hotels and can be flagged
down on the main road.
Places to Stay
Candolim is charter-holiday land, so accommodation tends
to be a little expensive for most of the season. The best
place to start looking is at the end of the lane that leads
to the sea opposite the Canara Bank, at the north side of
the village.
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