One of the main sources of Anjuna's enduring popularity
as a hippy hang out is its superb beach. Fringed by groves
of swaying coconut palms, the curve of soft white sand conforms
more closely to the archetypal vision of paradise than any
other beach on the north coast. Bathing is generally safer
than at most of the nearby resorts, too, especially at the
more peaceful southern end, where a rocky headland keeps
the sea calm and the undertow to a minimum.
North of the market ground, the beach broadens, running
in an uninterrupted kilometre long stretch of steeply shelving
sand to a low red cliff. The village bus park lies on top
of this high ground, near a crop of small cafes, bars and
Kashmiri handicraft stalls. Every lunch hour, tour parties
from Panjim pull in here for a beer, before heading home
again, leaving the ragged army of sun weary westerners to
enjoy the sunset.
The Visiting Season
The season in Anjuna starts in early November, when most
of the long staying regulars show up, and peters out in
late March, when they drift off again. During the Christmas
and New Year rush, the village is inundated with a mixed
crowd of round the world backpackers, refugees from the
British club scene and revellers from all over India, lured
by the promise of the big beach parties.
Outside peak season, however, Anjuna has a surprisingly
simple unhurried atmosphere- due, in no small part, to the
shortage of places to stay. Most visitors who come here
on market day or for the raves travel in from other resorts.
That said, a couple of large package tour hotels have appeared
over the past couple of years, and this is bound to radically
alter the mix of visitors here.
Nightlife
Thanks to the kill-joy attitude reputation, Anjuna is
a rave-venue for big parties that take place over here from
time to time, especially around the Christmas-New Year full
moon period. Smaller events may also happen whenever some
occasion or celebration comes up.
At other times, nightlife centres on the Shore Bar, in
the middle of the beach, which has a pounding sound system.
The biggest crowds show up accompanied by the latest ambient
trance mixes from London. The music gains pace as the evening
wears on winding up around 11.00 pm, when there's an exodus
over to the Guru Bar, further up the beach, or to the Primrose
Café in Vagator, both of which stay open until after
midnight.
Musical Amusements
When it eventually gets it act together, The Alcove, over
looking Ozran Vagator Beach, will be another worthwhile
nightspot. More mainstream musical entertainment is on offer
at Temptations, in the Red Cab Inn just below Starco's crossroads,
where Indian classical recitals and guitar based cover bands
feature with fire dancers on Mondays, starting at 7.00 pm.
How to Get There
Road:
Buses from Mapusa and Panjim drop passengers at various
points along the Tarmac Road across the top of the village,
which turns right towards Chapora at the Main Starco's crossroads.
The Starco's crossroads has a couple of small stores, a
motorcycle taxi rank, and functions as a de facto village
square and bus stand.
Note: Whenever one comes, keep a close
eye on one's valuables. Theft, particularly from the beach,
is a big problem. Party nights are the worst; if one stays
out late, keep the money and papers with oneself, or lock
them somewhere secure. Thieves have even been known to break
into local houses by lifting tiles off the roof.
