Guwahati's main business, tea is booming with the new Assam
tea auction centre holding auctions that previously took
place as far away as Calcutta and London. The large oil
refinery at Noonmati, on the northern outskirts, symbolizes
Guwahati's recent growth and prosperity. The busy central
market area contrasts sharply with the almost rural riverside
feel northeast of the centre, and the surrounding hills
rising beyond the coconut palms give Guwahati a fairly appealing
atmosphere.
Although strictly speaking Guwahati is split in two by
the Brahmaputra - only crossed by the Saraighat Bridge and
the ferries - "Guwahati" is taken to refer to
the main town south of the river, while north Guwahati is
virtually a separate town. The main roads out of town are
the Assam trunk road, to upper Assam and the Guwahati -
Shillong road to Meghalaya.
Prime Attractions
Umananda Temple
The Shiva temple of Umananda stands on an island bluff
in the middle of the Brahmaputra. Its location, at the top
of a flight of steep steps up from the beach, is more dramatic
than the temple itself. Ferries and motor launches leave
from Umananda Ghat, on the shore between the State Bank
of India and the Ashok Hotel.
Kamakhya Temple
On the commanding Nilachal hill, overlooking the river
8-km west of the centre, the important Kali temple of Kamakhya,
with its beehive-shaped 'Shikhara', is a fine example of
the distinctive Assamese style of architecture. As one of
the 'Shaktipiths', it marks the place where Sati's 'Yoni'
(vulva) landed when her body fell to earth in 51 pieces,
and is one of the three most important tantric temples in
India. A short walk up the hill brings one to a smaller
and emptier temple with great views of Guwahati and the
Brahmaputra.
Navagraha Temple
East of the town centre, atop another hill, is the atmospheric
Navagraha temple popularly known as the "Temple of
the Nine Planets", an ancient seat of astrology and
astronomy - surrounded by large trees that shelter tribes
of monkeys. Housed in a single red dome, again in the beehive
style, the central lingam is encircled by a further nine
representing the planets.
Srimanta Sankaradeva Kalashetra
Further from the centre of the town, the Srimanta Sankaradeva
Kalakshetra, on Shillong road in the Panjabari district,
was opened in late 1998 in order to celebrate the cultural
identity of the Assamese by promoting dance, drama, music
and art. Sankaradeva was a saint, poet, scholar, social
reformer and preacher largely responsible for the 15th century
Assamese renaissance. It houses a museum, art gallery, open-air
theatre and traditional Vaishnavite temple.
Janardan Temple
Janardan Temple, built in the style of Hindu and Buddhist
architecture, at Shukaleswar hillock near Shukaleswar Ghat
of Brahmaputra, the heart of town, is worth seeing. It was
renovated anew in 17th century.
Pandu
A little further is the Railway Township of Pandu, named
after the King Pandu. Over here is situated the temple of
Pandunath on the hillock. While in forest exile, Pandavas
came and lived here in the guise of Ganesha. The images
of Lord Ganesha and 'Pancha Pandava' brothers are present
in the temple besides other images. The image of Nrisingha
(also spelt as 'Nrusimha') incarnation maintains a difference
from others. Further west, the sunset at Brahmaputra is
simply touching.
How to Get There
Air:
Guwahati airport is situated 18-km east of the centre, and
is served by taxis and airport buses, including those run
by Indian airlines.
Rail:
The railway station is in the centre of town with the state
bus stand right behind and operates a very useful left luggage
service. The back of the railway station leads into the
Paltan Bazaar area, from which most of the private bus companies
operate.
Road:
Guwahati is the connector city of NH - 31, 37 and 40 with
the other cities of India by road. Buses ply from Guwahati
around the cities of Northeast India by National Highways.
State Transport Express and Super Express buses of Assam,
Meghalaya , Arunachal , Nagaland , and North Bengal ply
from Guwahati.
Local Transport:
Guwahati has an efficient and extensive system of minibuses
too. Cycle rickshaws are easy to find around the centre
of the town. The main terminal for river ferries is available
at Sukreswar Ghat.